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Lava Gull
The Galápagos Islands & mainland Ecuador,
September 29 - October 10, 2006

Sulawesi & Halmahera
Bali, Komodo & Rinca
Namibia
Uganda II
Galápagos
South Africa
Chad
Gambia
Alaska
Trinidad & Tobago
Uganda
Jordan
.. Other reports

It may seem surprising that one of the most coveted spots in the world for birdwatchers offers such a small list of species: 60 resident birds, of which few are spectacular in terms of form or colour, certainly not comparable to the tropical avian wonders found on mainland Ecuador. From these, only 22 are truly endemic. And yet, birders flock to the Galápagos, not to amass a long list, but to see these birds that are unique, not found anywhere else in the world, and often so tame that they can be photographed without a zoom.

Hood Mockingbird

While in the Galápagos, the visitor is almost permanently surrounded by seabirds. In certain islands, such as Genovesa, I had to be careful not to step on them. Great and Magnificent Frigatebirds are a constant sight flying overhead like ominous Batman logos, as are the three species of Booby, Common Noddy, Red-billed Tropicbird and Brown Pelican. Out at sea, the boat is often followed by large numbers of Elliot's Storm Petrel, whereas the endemic Galápagos Storm Petrel is very numerous around its breeding grounds in Genovesa, where it's preyed upon by the endemic subspecies of Short-eared Owl.Short-eared Owl.

Red-billed Tropicbird

Brown Pelican

Galápagos Penguin
Galápagos Mockingbird Mangrove Warbler,
Magnificent Frigatebird, male
Great Frigatebird, female
Short-eared Owl, Genovesa

A number of regular migrant shorebirds can be seen in the Galápagos in winter. All three species of Phalarope are possible, either at sea or inland.


White-tipped Shark, Punta Moreno, Isabela


In Isla Floreana, Wilson's and Red-necked Phalaropes shared an inland brackish lake with Greater Flamingo and Galápagos Pintail. Wilson's was also seen in one of the small, lush ponds found in the middle of the extensive lava fields in Punta Moreno, Isabela, between the Sierra Negra and Cerro Azul volcanoes. Large flocks of Grey Phalarope were seen on several occasions out at sea.

Lava fields in Punta Moreno, Isabela
Greater Flamingo, Floreana
Wilson’s Phalarope
Red-necked Phalarope

In the pristine white sand beach near the village of Puerto Villamil we also saw American shorebirds like Hudsonian Whimbrel and Marbled Godwit, among hundreds of the cartoon-like Ghost Crab.


Hudsonian Whimbrel

Although not exactly endemic to the Galápagos - the three are present as local subspecies - the Boobies are among the most characteristic and conspicuous birds of the islands.

Sanderlings, Española

Three quarters of the world population of Blue-footed Booby (Sula nebouxii excisa) breed in the Galápagos, and it's the most iconic bird of the archipelago, depicted in all sorts of souvenirs. Its complex and often comical nuptial dance (which I wasn't lucky to witness) is a familiar sequence of many documentaries. A shore fisher, it's relatively easy to see in the southern islands, especially Española.

Marbled Godwit
Marbled Godwit and Ruddy Turnstone
   
Ghost Crab Ghost Crab and Ruddy Turnstones
Blue-footed Booby, Española
The widespread American Oystercatcher

The largest of the three, Nazca Booby (Sula granti) has a less elaborate nuptial display, but very engaging nonetheless. We saw large numbers in Genovesa, where the laying season is between August and November. Of all the tame seabirds found throughout the islands, Nazca Boobies are probably the most fearless; I almost tripped over them on several occasions. An open ocean fisher, apart from the islands where it breeds it's frequently seen out at sea.

Red-footed Booby, Genovesa

Red-footed Booby (Sula sula websteri) is the smallest and most graceful, and also the most arboreal of the three, perching, nesting, and even displaying on trees and bushes. It is mostly nocturnal and thus rarely seen flying at sea. The place where visitors are most likely to see this bird is Genovesa. At the time of my visit, several adults and chicks were present on the island, but not in the numbers of their more terrestrial Nazca cousins.

Brown Pelican
Nazca Booby, Genovesa
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