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Giant Antpitta,
Paz de las Aves Reserve,
Mindo

Part II: Mainland Ecuador
The Galápagos Islands & mainland Ecuador,
September 29 - 7 October 10, 2006

Senegal II
Souht Africa II
Canada
Sulawesi & Halmahera
Bali, Komodo & Rinca
Namibia
Uganda II
Galápagos
South Africa
Chad
Gambia
Alaska
Trinidad & Tobago
.. Other reports

Birdseekers combines the trip to the Galápagos with an introduction to the birds of mainland Ecuador. This small South American country, crossed by the equatorial line that gives its name and compressed between Peru, Colombia and the Pacific Ocean, holds a rich mosaic of natural habitats, from the Andean páramo, with altitudes above 4.000m, to the extensive masses of lowland forest in the Amazon basin. This rich variety makes Ecuador one of the richest countries in the World in terms of birds, with more than 1,500 species recorded.

The Silanche River

Our time in the mainland (five days before and two after the Galápagos) was divided between the Western Andean slopes not far from Quito, and the cloud forest reserves and lodges in the Mindo region. The avian stars of this mainland section of the trip were undoubtedly the Hummingbirds, which congregate in large numbers around the feeders placed by wildlife authorities and private lodge owners.

Pale-mandibled Aracari

The Yanacocha Reserve (also called the "Inca Ditch") is a high-altitude cloud forest situated at 3,400 m (10,500 ft) elevation, noted primarily for the variety and number of its Hummingbirds. The imposing mass of the Pichincha volcano dominates the scenery, together with the western slopes of the Andean chain. Species seen around the sugar water-filled feeders included gems like Tyrian Metaltail, Great Sapphirewing, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Stripe Throated Hermit, or Shining Sunbeam.

Violet-tailed Sylph
Western slopes of the Andes
Cloud forest flowers
Buff-tailed Coronet

Shining Sunbeam

En route to the lower elevations around Mindo, we saw a pair of Andean Lapwing and our first Rufous-collared Sparrows. We returned to the high mountain Andean landscapes at the end of our trip, unfortunately with rainy weather that made birding difficult. However, we were rewarded with treats like Silvery Grebe and Andean Fox.

The summit of Volcán Pichincha

Buff-winged Starfrontlet, male Buff-winged Starfrontlet, female
 
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Andean lapwing
Andean Fox in its mountain habitat

We spent two nights at the beautiful and very comfortable Septimo Paraiso Lodge (www.septimoparaiso.com) near the town of Mindo. The lodge is placed within a cloud forest reserve and is alive with birds, among the most spectacular being Golden-headed Quetzal and Wattled Guan.

Golden-headed Quetzal

The town itself is a charming small place with a frontier feeling, very well kept and with such nice surprises as a very trusting Pacific Hornero hopping around the town's park

In the garden near the pool the lodge staff located a snake initially identified as a Bushmaster (Lachesis muta). However, it looked very different from Bushmasters I had seen elsewhere, and back home I definitely identified it as a Small-eyed Lancehead (Bothrops microphthalmus), a nevertheless very venomous pit viper. It was grabbed with tweezers and safely relocated in the bush away from the lodge.

Fawn-breasted Brilliant, female

The pool and gardens at Septimo Paraíso Lodge Great Sapphirewing
 
The town of Mindo
Bothrops microphthalmus
Tawny-bellied Hermit
Blue-headed Tanager

From Séptimo Paraiso we took day trips to several forest reserves and observatories (Bella Vista, Parque Tropical, Rio Blanco Mirador.) where feeders attracted large numbers of Hummingbirds, Tanagers, Barbets and the occasional Toucan. Photography opportunities were great, but poor light conditions didn't favour a small-lens camera like my Canon Powershot S-80 (see Photography section), often resulting in dark or grainy shots.

Velvet-purple Coronet

The highlight of this mainland section of the trip was the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek and the three species of Antpitta at Angel Paz's Paz de las Aves Reserve. The Paz brothers own and manage this patch of cloud forest surrounded by cultivated land, where they have managed to habituate several specimens of Moustached, Yellow-breasted and Giant Antpitta to feed from their hands.

Silver-throated (center) and Golden Tanagers

They have become so tame that some might argue the experience lacks "authenticity", but the place offers a unique chance to see some of these most elusive South American deep-forest dwellers. Besides, before realizing the income potential provided by birders, the Paz brothers used to hunt and eat these and many other birds from their forest.

Pale-mandible Aracari
Red-headed-Barbet, female
Golden (left) and Blue-grey Tanagers
Plate-billed Mountain Toucan
Silver-throated Tanager
Silver-throated Tanagers
Blue-gray Tanagers
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