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| Birdseekers combines the trip to the Galápagos with
an introduction to the birds of mainland Ecuador. This small South American
country, crossed by the equatorial line that gives its name and compressed
between Peru, Colombia and the Pacific Ocean, holds a rich mosaic of natural
habitats, from the Andean páramo, with altitudes above 4.000m, to the
extensive masses of lowland forest in the Amazon basin. This rich variety makes Ecuador one of the richest countries in the World in terms of birds, with more than 1,500
species recorded.
The Silanche River
Our time in the mainland (five days before
and two after the Galápagos) was divided between the Western Andean slopes not
far from Quito, and the cloud forest reserves and lodges in the Mindo region. The avian stars of this mainland
section of the trip were undoubtedly the Hummingbirds, which congregate in
large numbers around the feeders placed by wildlife authorities and private
lodge owners.
Pale-mandibled Aracari
The Yanacocha Reserve (also called the "Inca
Ditch") is a high-altitude cloud forest situated at 3,400 m (10,500 ft)
elevation, noted primarily for the variety and number of its Hummingbirds. The imposing mass of the Pichincha volcano dominates the scenery, together
with the western slopes of the Andean chain. Species seen around the sugar
water-filled feeders included gems like Tyrian Metaltail, Great
Sapphirewing, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Stripe
Throated Hermit, or Shining Sunbeam.
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| Violet-tailed Sylph |
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| Western slopes of the Andes |
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Cloud forest flowers |
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Buff-tailed Coronet |
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Andean lapwing |
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Andean Fox in its mountain habitat |
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Bothrops microphthalmus |
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Tawny-bellied Hermit |
Blue-headed Tanager |
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From Séptimo Paraiso we took day trips to
several forest reserves and observatories (Bella
Vista, Parque Tropical, Rio Blanco Mirador.) where feeders attracted large
numbers of Hummingbirds, Tanagers, Barbets and the
occasional Toucan. Photography opportunities were great, but poor light
conditions didn't favour a small-lens camera like my Canon Powershot S-80 (see Photography section), often resulting in dark or grainy
shots.
Velvet-purple Coronet
The highlight of this mainland section of
the trip was the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek and the three species of Antpitta
at Angel Paz's Paz de las Aves Reserve.
The Paz brothers own and manage this patch of cloud forest surrounded by
cultivated land, where they have managed to habituate several specimens of Moustached,
Yellow-breasted and Giant Antpitta to feed from their hands.
Silver-throated (center) and Golden Tanagers
They have become so tame that some might argue the experience lacks "authenticity",
but the place offers a unique chance to see some of these most elusive South
American deep-forest dwellers. Besides, before realizing the income potential provided
by birders, the Paz brothers used to hunt and eat these and many other birds
from their forest.
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| Pale-mandible Aracari |
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| Red-headed-Barbet, female |
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| Golden (left) and Blue-grey Tanagers |
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| Plate-billed Mountain Toucan |
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Silver-throated Tanager |
Silver-throated Tanagers |
Blue-gray Tanagers |
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