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Few places in the World can be as
attractive as South Africa for someone interested not only in birds and
wildlife, but also in history and politics. After going through some of the
most troubled pages in recent world history, the country has managed to reach a
degree of stability and prosperity that seemed unthinkable to many only ten
years ago.
I had wanted to go to South Africa for years, but until last May I couldn't find enough free time for a
three-week trip, which I think is the minimum that should be spent in order to
get a comprehensive idea of the country. I also preferred an itinerary
organized by someone with a thorough knowledge of the area, and the obvious
choice was Rockjumper Birding Tours, a South African company owned and
operated by Adam Riley and his team, specialised in Africa and Asia. I had known Adam since 2004, when we met in Lake Mburo, Uganda.
My guide during the trip was Keith Valentine, a 23-year-old birder from Johannesburg with a feeling for the country
and its fauna that goes well beyond knowledge. Born into a family of birders, he has travelled extensively throughout
Southern Africa, and at 21 he was the youngest person to reach the figure of 800 birds seen in the region
(South African birders and ornithologists generally work and count their birds in terms of Southern Africa as a region,
comprising not only South Africa but Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique).
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Some charismatic Southern African endemic birds; left to right:
Southern Black Korhaan, African Black Oystercatcher, Ground Woodpecker, Drakensberg Rockjumper |
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The trip was designed to include a
comprehensive range of different habitats found throughout the country,
providing the chance to see as many as possible South African endemic species,
without neglecting the big game watching opportunities offered by the famous
national parks in the East. Starting in Cape Town, we drove north through the
Karoo desert and back, then flew to Durban from where we birded the Kwa-Zulu
Natal Province, and drive north-east to Mpumalanga and Kruger National park.
To say that South Africa is a very
civilized country would be an understatement; services and infrastructure are
comparable to any European country, and the excellent state of even the
remotest roads is shown by the fact that we drove a Toyota Corolla, a regular
passenger car, for the duration of the trip. Only at very specific areas, like
the trail to Sani Pass, did we need a 4-wheel-drive.
The contrast with Chad, or any other African country for
that matter, couldn't be stronger.
It's the blend of sophisticated modernity
and pristine nature which makes the country so unique. South Africans seem to
take genuine pride in the conservation of their wildlife, which can be seen
almost everywhere you look.
The beginning of Austral winter is probably
not the best time for a birding trip; birds are not breeding or calling much,
landscapes are not at their best, and it can get very cold in some areas.
However, cool weather allowed us to see many birds and animals in the middle of
the day which in summer would only be out in the early morning or late
afternoon. Apart from migrants and a few nomadic desert species, we didn't miss
any good birds due to the season or bad weather. And, apart from rough seas
around the Cape that forced us to cancel a pelagic trip, we were lucky and had
very few truly bad days.
Thanks to Keith's knowledge and skills, and a little
luck, we did exceptionally well with birds and mammals, and even saw a good
sample of reptiles despite the weather (See lists at the end of the
report). I saw all the spectacular South African and regional endemics I had
expected and more, plus mammals like Sable Antelope and Wild Dog,
that had eluded me in previous African trips.In the following report I only
mention those sites and animals that I find particularly memorable; there's a Bird,
Mammal, and Reptile list at the end.
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| Keith Valentine shares a snack with Cape Glossy Starlings, Kruger NP. |
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Jackass Penguins at Boulders Beach,
Western Cape |
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| Impala drinking at Mkhuze Game Reserve |
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Books:
As a
field guide I used SASOL Birds of Southern Africa, by Sinclair, Hockey & Tarboton (Struik). Struik publishes a wide catalogue of excellent books
about the region's wildlife: Field Guide to the Snakes and Other Reptiles of
Southern Africa by Bill Branch is invaluable, and Field Guide to the
Mammals of Southern Africa by Chris & Tilde Stuart is a very good
photographic reference.
I also carried with me the indispensable Kingdon
Field Guide to African Mammals (A&C Black). There is an abridged
version of this book, devoted solely to Southern Africa.
As a historical reference, A Traveller's
History: South Africa by David Mason (Phoenix) provides an excellent and
readable overview of the country's fascinating history until the present day.
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