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The desert seen from the Karoopoort escarpment
South Africa, 1-21 May, 2006
The Karoo Desert
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From Cape Town we drove via Lambert's Bay and Calvinia to Brandvlei, a small, sleepy town in the middle of Bushmanland. From here we took several drives along dirt roads to find desert bird like Ludwig's and Karoo Bustard, Grey Tit, Karoo Penduline Tit, Yellow-vented Eremomela, Dusky Sunbird. The landscape around Brandvlei is wide and flat, endless plains dotted by scrub or grass tufts and no trees except the arboreal Aloe species, and a few planted Eucalyptus near farmhouses.

Karoo Korhaan

Practically the whole Karoo is fenced as private farmland or grazing grounds for cattle or sheep, so it's impossible to leave the roads and venture into the promising plains. Menacing signs in Afrikaans hanging from barbed wire fences promise terrible punishments for trespassers. Other birds we saw included Namaqua Sandgrouse, Scaly-feathered Finch and numerous Social Weaver nests along the road to Kenhardt.

Capped Wheatear

However, birding from the road was productive enough to keep us busy, and the fences and wires provided perches for Capped Wheatear, Karoo Long-billed Lark, and Sabota Lark. We were lucky to see the endemic and highly localized Red Lark, a male doing a display flight and finally perching on a wire. The most commonly seen raptor was Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk, and I had the nice surprise of seeing a Secretarybird on a cultivated field when driving back towards Calvinia.


Namaqua Sandgrouse, male (right) and female
Social Weaver
Social Weaver nest
Social Weaver nests along the road
Karoo Long-billed lark
Sabota Lark
Southern Pale
Chanting Goshawk
Secretarybird

It was on a nightdrive from Brandvlei that we had one of the biggest prizes of the trip: an Aardvark was about to cross the road when we came upon it, hesitated and then turned around and run behind the fence that bordered the road. This most bizarre of animals is notoriously elusive and difficult to see, and finding it was a good omen for the trip's success.

Lark-like Bunting


Another nice surprise was a beautiful male Karoo Tent Tortoise (Psammobates tentorius verroxi) crossing a road in the middle of the day (again, thanks to the cool weather). Normally I wouldn't handle a tortoise from an arid environment: they tend to discharge their bowel contents when in distress, which can deprive them of a precious water reserve.

Karoo Tent Tortoise habitat

In this and other cases during the trip it was inevitable, since there was a truck coming right behind us. I just held him long enough to take him safely to the other side of the road and take a few photos, and he didn't seem much stressed by the experience.

An Aardvark retreats behind the roadside fence
Aloe dichotoma
White-backed Mousebird
Unidentified Camel Cricket
Karoo Tent Tortoise


On the way back to the Cape we spent some time birding around the Karoopoort escarpment in the arid Tankwa-Karoo region. This rocky mountain area is home to the endemic and localized Cinnamon-breasted Warbler, and in order to find it we had to climb the escarpment and scan the hillside from above. The landscape from the top was breathtaking, and the way up was full of beautiful succulent plants. The arduous climb rewarded us with great views of the warbler, plus other birds like White-necked Raven, Mountain Wheatear, Pririt batis and, back on the road, Karoo Prinia.

Mountain Wheatear


Succulent plants on the escarpment’s hillside

Angulate Tortoise from the Karoo
The Tankwa Karoo road
The top of the escarpment
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