La Serena is the largest remaining area of uncultivated steppe in Spain, and one of the best open habitats left in Western Europe. Lying east of Badajoz, it covers a total area of 100,000 hectares, from the large reservoirs of the river Zujar in the north to the chain of small sierras of Castuera, Tiros and Torozo in the south.

The flower-covered plains

The endless plains are mostly dedicated to pasture, with some cereal cultivations and a few excellent dehesa areas around the sierras, alternating with olive groves. Due to the generally poor soils, agriculture is extensive and traditional, which allows for varied and generally well-preserved habitats for steppe birds. The few trees that can be seen in the plains are almost exclusively introduced Eucaliptus.

Dehesa near Benquerencia

Tens of thousands of Merino sheep, whose wool was the staple of Spanish economy until the 16^th Century, are herded throughout the plains. Although wolves have long disappeared from Extremadura, shepherds are still accompanied by their large Mastines to guard the herds.




Merino Sheep

In the first week of April I accompanied George and Leslie Carr, two English photographers, to capture the courtship display of Great Bustards and the recently arrived Lesser Kestrel that nest in several old buildings in the area. Apart from spending long hours in different hides, we explored the Sierra de Tiro and the dehesa at its foothills from the small village of Benquerencia, and also the plains along several of the roads that traverse the region.

We were lucky in that heavy rains had fallen the previous week after a very dry year, turning an otherwise dry landscape into beautiful green and yellow, in some points reminding of Scottish moorland. All along the grassland there are peculiar pizarra formations known as “dog teeth”, which contribute to the unique landscape. Birds were also beginning their breeding season, and almost all migrants had started to arrive. Red-legged Partridge males called and displayed from the top of rocks, and the songs of five species of lark were a constant through the day.


“Dog teeth”

Although less renowned than other sites in Extremadura like the Trujillo plains or Monfragüe, La Serena is probably the best area for steppe birds in Spain, holding sizable numbers of Great and Little Bustard, Black-bellied and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Montagu's Harrier, Stone Curlew and all lark species found in Spain, except for Lesser Short-toed. In the sierras several pairs of Black Stork, Egyptian Vulture, Golden and Bonelli's Eagle have their nests, and in the dehesa Black-shouldered Kite and Azure-winged Magpie can be seen quite easily.

Large flocks of Spanish Sparrow move throughout the area, and common birds such as Woodchat Shrike and Stonechat take readily to the treeless conditions of the steppe, nesting on shrubs or rock outcrops. Several pairs of Great-spotted Cuckoo can be seen wherever there are a few trees and nesting magpies. Also, La Serena is one of the major wintering areas for Common Crane in Spain, with some 5,000 birds every year.